LOG WALL ERECTION

The following table lists many tools and other items commonly used in the construction of log walls.

                A five-person crew will be the most efficient.  Two workers are usually required and limited to moving logs onto the subfloor while two or more are needed in actual log wall construction.  The final man can run the log insulation, caulk and spike the walls together.

                Do not start the log erection until the subfloor is square and the exact dimensions as specified in the blueprints.  Inaccuracies in the subfloor will affect log placement causing the precut package to not fit.

Check the squareness of your subfloor by measuring the diagonals.

                All logs used to construct your precut log wall system are identified with letters and numbers.  The letters represent the log course (vertical location) and the numbers represent the log placement within that course (horizontal location).  The letters and numbers correspond to the “Cut Sheet/Log Layout Plan” in the blueprints.  Place all A, B, and C logs on the subfloor at this point will speed the log erection process.

                View the cut sheet as if you were looking at the outside of the log walls, as if standing outside the home, looking inward.  The Cut Sheet includes a diagram showing the shape of the log walls and the starting point, always labeled “A1”.  The A1 log will be placed at this point on wall #1.  Then log A2, A3 and so on, moving around the perimeter of the subfloor in a clockwise fashion as per the cut sheet diagram, until all “A” logs are placed.  The “B” course i s placed on top of the “A” course in the same fashion.

                Before actually placing any logs in position, sweep all debris from the subfloor perimeter.  Then pop chalk-lines around the perimeter marking the plumb-line for the interior side of the log.  Use the following table, illustrations and discussion to determine how far in from the edge of the subfloor to chalk these lines.  Different log styles require different insets.

                Log Style                       Distance of Chalk-line from Subfloor Edge

                6x8 D                                      4”

                8x8 D                                      6”

                8” Rnd                                    6”

                6x12                                        4 - 1/2”

When the logs are placed on the subfloor with the interior face flush with the chalk-lines, all log styles will overhang the subfloor slightly.  This is normal and is important, as the overhang produces a drip edge and prevents water from seeping under first course of logs.

                The rectangle created by the four chalk-lines marks the inside dimensions of the log walls.  This rectangle must be perfectly square and exactly the right size.  If the subfloor is too large in any dimension, the above chalk-line inset distances will not work.  In such a case, the inset for one wall must be increased.  If you must make this correction, do it on a wall that is under a porch roof if possible.  If the subfloor is too small in any dimension, the above chalk-line inset distances will not work.  One inset will have to be decreased, and the logs will further overhang the subfloor.  This may cause you to have to fill in the grooves on the bottom of the first course of logs.  If you must do so, rip pieces of 3/8-inch plywood about 1/2-inch wide and tack into grooves.  This creates a flat surface on the bottom of the log.

                After the chalk-lines are properly placed and before installing any logs, you should consider your electrical plan.  You may request a proposed Electrical Plan from our drafting department when ordering blueprints.  The location of any outlets in the log walls should be marked on the subfloor with a pencil inside the chalk-lines around the subfloor perimeter.  Common outlets to be located include electrical receptacle outlets, cable TV and telephone wiring.  Only those outlets in log walls need to be marked at this time.  Electrical and other outlets in log walls require drilling a one-inch or larger hole through the subfloor and first two or three courses of logs so wiring may be brought to the outlet box from underneath the house.

                Once chalk-lines are in place and the electrical outlet locations are marked, find the log labeled “A1”.  Check its length to the length given on the Cut Sheet (see Cut Sheet below).  Also, check the spline cuts to see if they are properly located.

If in the instance of a “butt-and-pass” corner as with the 6x8 and 8x8 D-Log, the A1 log may be a “butt” log or a “pass” log.  The “pass” log will overhang the subfloor as shown below.  However, a “butt” log will not overhang the subfloor.  In this case, the “butt” log will butt up to the last wall laid, or will be placed flush with the chalk-line for the last wall in course A.

                Use the table below to determine the amount of overhang required for the particular log style being used: *View from outside looking in

                                Log Size                 Overhang Amount Needed From Left Hand Side

                                6x8                                                          8”

                                8x8                                                          8”           

                                6x12                                                        2”

                                8” ROUND                                                8”

Always place log so that interior face is flush with the chalk-line for that wall.  Do not spike down a log until the entire course is laid out and square.  You should, however, toenail logs down and together during placement.

                If in the instance of a “saddle notch” corner, as with the 6x8 D-Log, 8x8 D-Log and 8” Round Log, the A-1 Log may be a half log or a full log with a saddle notch cut into it.  If the A1 Log is a full log, check the cut sheet (log layout sheet) to find the number of the last log in Course “A” (a half log).  This half log will be laid first and the A1 Log will be placed over it.  All logs with saddle notch corners will overhang the subfloor by 8 inches.  Therefore, place the A1 Log so that its end is overhanging the subfloor by 8 inches.

                Always place the logs so that the interior face is flush with the chalk-line for that wall.  Do not spike down a log until the entire course is laid out and square.  You should, however, toenail logs down and together during placement.

                If in the instance of a “Dovetail Corner”, as with the 6x12 Log patterns, the A1 Log maybe a half log or a full log.  If the A1 Log is a full log, check the cut sheet (log layout sheet) to find the number of the last log in course “A” (a half log).  This half log will be laid first, and the A1 Log will be laid over it.  All logs with dovetail corners, will overhang the subfloor by 2 inches therefore, place the A1 Log (whether it is a half log or whole log) so that its end overhangs the subfloor 2 inches.

                Always place the logs so that the interior face is flush with the chalk-line for that wall.  Do not spike down a log until the entire course is laid out and square.  You should, however, toenail logs down and together during placement.

                Once the A1 Log is in its proper place, find Log A2.  Apply two 1/4 to 1/2” beads of caulk (provided) to the right hand end of A2 (viewing from outside of house), one bead on each side of the spline cut vertically as shown below.

                Place Log A2 to the right of Log A1 (viewing from outside of house).  Make sure the inside face of A2 is flush with the chalk-line and that the left hand is tightly butted to A1.  Once A2 is properly placed, toenail A2 to A1 in the tongues on top of the log using 8 penny galvanized nails.  Also, toenail the right hand end of A2 to the floor.  Continue this process of log placement until you have completed the first course.  Remember to keep the interior face of the logs flush with the chalk-line.

                Pay close attention to the location of doors and windows.  Leave the proper distance for door and window openings as shown on the cut sheet.  For example, if, after placing Log A2, the Cut Sheet shows a door opening measuring 3’4”, you simply “skip” a space exactly 3’4” before placing Log A3.

                Once the first course is completely laid out and is square and flush with chalk-lines, you are ready to spike down the logs.  Logs are predrilled for 3/8” spikes or lags, in which case you simply use one fastener per hole with a washer provided.  The holes are countersunk, so hammer or screw the fastener all the way in so it is flush with or below the top surface of the log between the tongues & grooves.  Screws which require no predrilled holes should also be countersunk.  Carefully inspect each log to see that it is flat on the floor over its entire length.  If at any point there is an upward bow in the log, more fasteners should be applied to the bowed area to bring it down flat.

                After the course is spiked down completely, you should place the dovetail splines in the spline cuts at the butt joints of the logs.  The splines may be wrapped in insulation but do not have to be.  Also the empty spline cut may be half-filled with liquid foam before inserting spline.

                Once the splines are in place, the first course should be drilled for electrical outlets.  Go to your marks on the subfloor where your outlets will be.  Measure from the interior face of the log toward the center the proper depth of your outlet boxes.  Center your drill bit at this point and drill through the log and subfloor.  A minimum one-inch auger is recommended.  Use a pencil to lightly mark the interior face of the log as to the center of your hole.  This will help you line up your holes when you drill through the second course.

                After all drilling is complete (VERY IMPORTANT NOT TO MISS ANY), use a broom to thoroughly clean all sawdust and debris off the top of the first course so the second course will sit down properly.  Once done, apply the adhesive foam insulation between the tongues on the top of the first course of logs.  This will complete the installation of the first course.

                You are now ready to install the second course of logs.  Again, lay out the entire course and square up before spiking down.  Use caulking as before and toenail logs down and together.  Leave space for door and window openings as with the first course.  Be certain to keep walls plumb by using string lines and a 4-foot level.  Once the entire course is in place and square, spike down.  Then install the dovetail splines as before.  Next, drill the electrical holes as with the previous course.  Refer to the following diagrams as to the exact location of outlet boxes for each log style.  Check your local building codes to see that outlets are the minimum height required.  Cutting out the boxes will be discussed later.

                At this point, you should be informed of what to do if a log is missing.  This rarely happens, but it could.  All precut log packages include two extra logs.  If a log is missing or damaged, use the extra logs (labeled “extra”) to make a log of the proper length.  This will require you to cut the log to length by making two cuts with a circular saw or by using a chain saw.  Make sure the cuts are square.  Also, use the circular saw and a chisel to make the spline cuts.  Another option would be to find another log with matching specifications to use in place of the missing log.  For example, if you are missing B-2, chances are that C-2, D-2, E-2, or etc...may have the same dimensions and cuts.  Go ahead and use the replacement.  Chances are that the missing log will be found in another bundle of logs and can be used later.  If you need assistance, call us at 1-800-251-9218.

                Repeat the aforementioned log placement process in the order specified.  Keep each course plumb and square.  It is very important to closely check the log walls to ensure they are plumb, level, straight and square.  Check these parameters as each course is installed.  Use 2x4’s to brace walls, come-along’s or whatever is necessary to keep walls plumb and square.  Use your 4’ level and string lines to keep log walls straight.  Do not allow log walls to bow in or out.  You should also check on the diagonal measurements of the home as the courses go up.

                Make sure the last course is square and that all walls are straight with no bowing in or out.  Otherwise, the roof system will not fit properly.  Check your diagonals.  Do not go any further until the last course is perfect.  Furthermore, if the second floor joists will notch into the top course of logs (see the next section --SECOND FLOOR SYSTEM), it is best to cut notches before installing the last course.